Yogic Flying

Yogi Flying is where one sits in a lotus position on a thin mattress. By thrusting down with the legs and springing up, it is possible to do a sort of hop, whereby the body leaves the mattress and then returns. In order to 'fly' as soon as you land back, you bounce again, and again, and again.......
So if you do this for say 10 minutes you will be flying for 5!! Yogic flyers believe, of course, that if you practice this then there will come a time when you bounce up and don't come down until you 'will' it. A bit like flying pigs!!

Anyway, on the overnight sleeper bus from Jaisalmer to Udaipur we both experienced a form of yogic flying. As we lay on our bunk beds (a kind of capsule on the upper tier of the bus) we were continuously thrown up into the air due to the road conditions, which ranged from bad through to diabolically outrageous. (If there had been an earthquake we would not have realised). Out of the 11 hour journey we spent about 5 hours airborne!!

This bus had air horns, I say 'horns', because it had 4. The driver could pick from a number of presets; one to scare the shit out of stray cows; another for the unwary pedestrian; an especially noisy blaring for slower vehicles, and a long, very loud tune when going through sleeping towns. We were surprised that 'Colonel Bogey' was not played when passing police and army posts.

Once again the driver and his accomplices seemed to have absolutely no regard for the fee paying passenger. The scheduled stop was at a run down street side vendor with no toilets. Okay for the men who just about piss anywhere, but a real problem for the women, many whom were oldish Indian ladies. Meanwhile only one couple ate at this establishment. The driver and his merry band had their meal for free!

We are not grumbling here. Its not a bad way to travel at all, and quite cheap. (And you get to fly)

It has, however, become more obvious how so many males hold women in utter (sexual) contempt. Maybe even the majority of middle aged men. Enough to give real vibes of menace and threat. This is not just our observation, but that of many of our fellow travelers, especially the females. The word most often used to describe this behaviour is 'nasty'.

On that somewhat sad note we leave you with some pictures of Jaisalmer fort, and our chariot.

Into the desert

Arrived in Jaisalmer. Staying at 'Dylan Cafe & Guest House.' www.dylancafeguesthouse.com.
Good big room with two outside windows and a balcony, separate toilet and shower. £3.50 a night, I know, I know extravagant!!

Went on a camel safari. Taken 40 km into the desert, by jeep, where we pick up a couple of camels (Lula and kula, both male) and a guide. Then ride camels for a couple of hours, about 10 km, into sand dunes. Mike has the grumbly one with lots of scars from fighting other camels. Set up camp, which means put a blanket on the sand!!
Collect some wood, make a fire and guide then cooks a potato, cauliflower, onion, tomato and chilli curry, with rice and chapati.

Watch sunset. Then it is dark. Time to relax. At 7.30 pm it starts to rain! We are on top of one blanket and under another. After a while rain stops and dung beetles come out to play, collecting fresh camel dung. Lots of them! There is a lot of dung!
Clouds depart and we are left with a spectacular display of stars. No light or indeed sound pollution. Time to sleep. Yvonne woken by dog attempting to steal our day sack which contains some biscuits, says 'shoo', dog obliged...
One more animal joins us, a lone scorpion.

Wake up at 5 am and watch the sky light up over the hour. Chai is served. Followed by breakfast of hard boiled eggs and toast. At 8.15 am the Jeep turns up and we make our way back to Jaisalmer.

Leave you with some pictures.

The Blue City

Jodhpur is known as the blue city. The Raj at the time did not like the view from his fort, Mehrangarh, so he ordered the houses painted different shades of blue. You can still see the effect from the fort.

Jodhpur is further west into the deserts of Rajasthan. It has a very medieval feel, a tangle of winding streets. Smells of spices, incense and sewers!

From the fort you can wizz down a series of wire cables called the 'flying fox'. So we did. The longest stretch is about 500 metres. The closest thing Mike got to his jet pack!!

After all that fun it started to rain, thunder and lightning. Just as well we had finished. Not sure that steel aerial cables and high voltages go together! Time for food.

We do not trust empty restaurants, and tend to eat where we see lots of local people eating. So we ended up at a place called Pilar's. As you can see a very nice thali for £1.50.

Tomorrow we go further towards and into proper desert, a place called Jaisalmer for a camel safari. A night sleeping in the desert, under the stars.

The Pink City

Caught train to Jaipur, Rajasthan, a/c sleeper. Both in different, but adjoining carriages. Not too happy about that. Decided to have word with ticket inspector. Not a problem, in fact had the whole four berth compartment to ourselves! Nice man.

2 a/c much nicer than 1st class non a/c. Don't tend to stick to the plastic covered bed as much, as it is cooler. Sealed, tinted windows. Compartments have curtains for some privacy. Remind us of the kind of curtains giving bed privacy in hospital. Getting used to sleeping on trains, or at least having long cat naps. We will be having a long stint on a train soon, 31 hours, when we head to Darjeeling.

Usual hassle at the train station. Up to the 'prepaid taxi/tuk tuk' stand. Quite useful. You tell the official in the kiosk where you want to go. He tells you the price, gives you a ticket with that price on, you pay him. A tuk tuk then takes you. Give him the ticket, and he redeems the payment. Every one happy!! If you try to do it privately it becomes a tiresome haggle, and you are at a disadvantage because you don't know the distances. Still about 20% commission on top.

Very nice guest house. Bit more expensive, but we both agree that we need a bit of comfort, and some decent food. This place rated 8th out of 264. Called the Rajpunta. Family run. Best food we have had in India. But...... Yep there is always at least one downside, (this is India after all!!). Place is right next to one of the main railway lines. 60 trains coming and 60 trains going, in other words 120 trains in every 24 hours, or 1 train every 12 minutes. Big express trains, with very loud horns and pulling at least 15 - 20 plus carriages!!
Surprisingly we got used to them, and after a while only noticed the ones that vibrated the guest house. lol.

Saw:- Hawa Mahal, Jantar Mantra, Amber Fort. Tuk tuk to Amber Fort 5000 irp, local bus 17 irp each. We took the bus!

Yvonne brought a table cloth with elephants on it, and Mike brought a Rajasthani shirt.

Leave you with a few pictures of Jaipur. Man with Mike is the owner of the guesthouse, although his son, daughter and wife run it.

Agra Part 2

Before we move onto 'The Pink City', (Jaipur) we would like to say a little more about Agra. We saw the baby Taj, you guessed, like the Taj but very much smaller.
Went to Agra fort, the Red. Occupied/owned by lots of different people over time. One such owner had a harem of over 5000. He died in his thirties. Quite frankly I'm not surprised!!
Had a great afternoon/early evening in nature park/gardens that has great views of the Taj.

Our accommodation was a little trying in the end. Rooms very hot. Constant scratching, our first encounter with bed bugs, we think. Fortunately no sign if lice.

Mikes first encounter with 'Delhi Belly'. Oh what fun. (You might want to imagine/visualise this, or not).
He was surprised to find that for very little effort a surprising amount of downward thrust was produced when the bowel suddenly emptied. Now remember his wish to buy a jet pack? Well he imagined a couple of helium balloons and a strapped on funnel; point down for vertical momentum and horizontal for lateral. Rather like a water fueled rocket, you know, the ones you pump up! Fuel would be a diet of dates and custard...
Unfortunately he was better the next day.

Leave you with a picture of Mike and Yvonne in their new jobs. The Taj Mahal from the park at dusk.

Taj Mahal

Not going to say much about the Taj Mahal. Lots of stuff about its conception and construction on the net!
Both up before sunrise to watch the colour change on the 'Dream in Marble'.
So, just going to leave you with some photos.

Thanks for all your comments, we appreciate them.

Next 'The Pink City'.

Agra

Overnight to Agra, home of the famous Taj Mahal, via Delhi.
Overnight train to Delhi from Hardiwar. 2 a/c sleeper. Both of us are on the top bunks in the same compartment, the bottom bunks are occupied by two people, sleeping. You get a packet on your bunk. Inside are two clean sheets, smell of bleach!  Have to climb up 5 foot to get onto bunk. No place to stow rucksacks, so they have to sleep with us. We both get our heads down for a few hours sleep. Delhi at 5.15, a change of platform for the 6.00 to Agra. This time 2 a/c chair. Free tea on train, and breakfast. This an express train, takes 2.5 hours.

Early morning view of slum dwellers starting their breakfast cooking fires. Opulent buildings, slums, opulent buildings, slums, and then into lush green countryside.

Breakfast is served. On a tray are three containers, two small ones and a larger one. The small ones contain a white liquid, and a brown liquid, which has unidentified bits floating in it. (In general we call this curry sauce, the Indians call it gravy) The large container has a white blob and a brown doughnut shaped thing. I leave the diagnostic to the chief taster
(Yvonne). Based on expression and gurgling sounds decide to bypass this culinary delight! Fortunately there is bread butter, jam and a carton of apple juice. Not a patch on our first train breakfast.

Shortly after our hearty breakfast we pull into Agra station. We are now immune to in your face 'come, come, best price, where you go? Come, come 200 rupees I take you to the moon!! Return journey little bit more, bring own oxygen, no oxygen, worry not I sell very good price, no commission, you bet!

Bee line to tuk tuk where we get a good price to the 'Friends Paying Guesthouse', 500 (Indian metres) from the east gate of the Taj.
First room clean, but right next to the cafe/dinner area. Ask to move, not a problem. Good room on next floor. £5 a night. Staying 3 nights, then off by train to Jarpur, the pink city.

Leave with a photo of Yvonne inside our cell, I mean room, looking out. And a view of Agra (you can see bits of the Taj, look for the dome) from our roof.

Next blog, 'The Taj Mahal'

How to get a bad back.

After a good nights sleep, and breakfast, got a tuk tuk into Rishikesh. Off for a bit of exploring and orientation. Got down to the banks of the Ganges and followed it from ghat to ghat. 

A ghat is a sort of platform and steps that go down to the river. All sorts of ceremonies take place from these ghats throughout the year, including funeral pyres. Had a paddle in the Ganges. Got mobbed by kids who wanted us to buy flowers in  small baskets to float down the river as some kind of offering (Puja). Took all my 10 rupee notes (80p worth). Ended up with 8 baskets!! We floated one and gave them the rest back.

Enqired and researched for white water rafting. Hmmm, looking at equipment, helmets, life jackets, rafts (much patchwork repairs), and series of pictures portraying terrified rafters, decided on health and safety grounds, and shear common sense to leave our rafting until New Zealand, yo ho ho. Also Ganges not the purist of rivers...

Did a bit of shopping. Yvonne brought a scarf. You can't have too many scarf's!! 

Arrived back at High bank. Yvonne convinced me that a massage is what was needed. Good move!!?  Well let me tell you all about it... Ayurveda Massage. I think they use it in Guantanamo Bay as an 'enhanced' interrogation technique.
Some parts were OK, like when I wasn't being massaged. Some parts weren't too bad, and other parts were just painful. I began to regret the whole thing when the masseur started to slap me around the head and use his fingers to separate individual muscle groups in my neck and shoulders!! At one point I was about to confess to being a jihadist. The interrogation lasted an hour.
Yvonne enjoyed hers ' oh I feel all relaxed'. Ha!!

Went to Mama's guest house for dinner, just across the way. No place set aside for dinners, Mama just asks if you've come for dinner? A table and chairs are produced on the veranda, you sit and a vegetarian thali is placed in front of you, (3 different dishes, plus rice, chapatti, water followed by a glass of marsala tea), 70 rupees each, plus a little extra for the bottle of water. (1 rupee = 1p)

Leave you with a picture of Yvonne in the Ganges. Mike being mobbed.

Next post 'Agra'.

Amritsar

Caught the local bus to Pathankot, a four hour journey. Managed to get some sleep, well my bum and Yvonne's leg! Parts of the road are really very good, and some parts no so, and some parts a case of what road? The buses have very firm suspension, our spines can attest to this.

Arrived in Pathankot, in the Punjab. Found railway station where we had a ticket, 2 a/c, to Amritsar. Had a cup of char, and waited for the train.

2 a/c stands for second class air conditioned. In this case it was also sleeper class, which meant you had your own bunk.
On the train for 2 1/2 hours.
I thought Delhi was manic in terms of traffic, but Amritsar takes the biscuit. Total anarchy. The biggest, loudest horn wins!!

Hotel Veenus  International (sic). Non executive room £9,
a/c. Actually very clean. The only window looks onto corridor, but has a curtain. Find a nearby restaurant because we are both tired and hungry pay an outrageous sum of £5.75  for our meals. Large party of Australians came when we were halfway through, were pissed off because there was not a wine list!! lol:-) .
Went to wash/shower before bed, Yvonne saw a very large cockroach, must have been the size of a small cat!! I was going to train it to carry a ruck sack but before any negotiations it disappeared down the drain in the bathroom. We kept that door bolted during the night!

Next day off to see the 'Golden Temple'. The most holy place for Sikhs. Nice and peaceful. A nice change from the manic streets. Mike had his walking stick, some kind person offered him a wheel chair.

Also went to the India/Pakistan boarder (Attari-Wagah boarder closing ceremony). Every evening from around 5 till about 6.30 the Indians form up on their side, and the Pakistanis on theirs. They spend some time posturing, running up to the boarder gates with the flag of India, while the Pakistanis do much the same on their side. Then the Indians play music and dance a lot. The Pakistanis are not allowed to do this. After this guards/soldiers shout a lot and march up to the gate, with lots of high kicking and stamping. At the end the gates on both sides of the boarder are opened, they then lower the flags on both sides. The gates are then slammed shut. Still, better than a war, oh yeah, they do shoot and bomb each other as well.

Tonight we catch an overnight train towards Rishiskesh.
Next post 'how to cure a bad back'.

How to cure a bad back.

Caught the train from Amritsar to Hardiwar on route to Rishikesh. Place made famous by the Beatles in the 60's for its ashrams and yoga. Now even more famous for its white water rafting.

We brought the train ticket in Mcleod Ganj. Only class left was 1st class. Could not understand why it was so cheap at £6 each (well cheaper for over 60's) lol, and this for a 700km journey overnight. Leaving at 10.15 pm and arriving at 7.40 am.
Well, not a/c but two fans attached to ceiling, two berth cabin. A lockable door, bars on the open window. Had to turn the fans off as brushes were so worn that we feared they would melt. Once the train got moving there was a cool breeze.

Can tell when the train is in a station, a strong smell of urine. The men jump from the platform onto the track and then take a piss while facing the platform. Don't know why, there are adequate, reasonably maintained toilets in the station, and using the urinals is free. 5rp for a crap, bring your own paper.

The public bus we took previously with the hard suspension had caused some back pain due to transmission of every bump using the human spine as a shock absorber.
Trains are the same, hard suspension. Non of your namby pamby european suspension for smooth journey. On no sir, we are providing you with authentic whole sensory experience, a journey of the body and mind!!
However, the bumps and swaying transmit through the firm mat of the bunk, sort of like a vibrating table or mat. After a while it unknots all the niggardly aches and pains. Both of us had a few hours sleep. Back now as good as new!

Now in Rishikesh. Seema's guest house. £2.50 for a double room per night, with separate toilet and shower. Clean and tidy. In the 'High Bank', which is a couple of km from Rishikesh. Nice and quiet.  Going to see about a bit of rafting tomorrow.

Leave you with a picture of Yvonne in her bunk, and Mike in his.

Next post 'How to get a bad back'.

McLeod in the clouds

Feels we are in Tibet rather than India. Lots of monks about. Many of them have chunky wrist watches. They all seem to have mobile phones, and quite a few have either laptops or pads of some description. Mind you this is the centre for 'free Tibet', so it figures that there would be a need for communication.
We like it here, so decided to stay for 5 days. Not the same intense 'in your face'. Relaxed and laid back.
From our hotel/guest house we have a spectacular view of the foot hills facing south towards the plains of India, while behind us we can see the mountains and peaks of the Himalayas.

The room is clean, has an attached shower and WC  (European). Free WiFi, and a cafe. However, there are lots of places to eat. Room costs £5 a night.
Made friends with a cat, fed it some cheese.
When we went to bed we left the window open. The windows have metal bars and wrought iron work, to keep the monkeys out. Fast asleep when Yvonne calls out 'Mike something is touching my feet!!'  Switch light on, cat curled up at bottom of bed. Checked it for fleas, none, so let it stay.
Next night the same, and the next.

We both took a course on making stuff out of paper mache over a few days. We found the design work good fun. Were taught a number of techniques on the painting side, using fine brushes and water colours. The finished article is lacquered a couple of times to make it water proof.

Lots of nice stuff to buy. Pure yak wool shawls, blankets, jumpers, as well as cashmere sweaters. Could fit yourself out to look like a 60's hippy for a few pounds!!
Yvonne brought herself a scarf, can't have too many scarf's!

Did the tourist bit, visited the temples and spun the prayer wheels.

Tomorrow (12th Sept) make our way to Amritsar.
Leave you with a couple of photos of McLeod Ganj.

Shake,Rattle and Roll.

Our next stop is McLeod Ganj (Dharmasala), home of the Dalai Lama, in exile. At 1750 metres, in the foothills of the Himalayas. But how to get there? By bus of course! Let's go  overnight as it takes 8 and 1/2 hours, means we won't have to pay for accommodation, yippee.

Get to bus station, find bay where bus will depart from, and wait. Bus leaves at 21.30. Is about what we expected, a little tired and worn out, the bus I mean. Tyres are completely bald, if I didn't know better I would have said that they were solid rubber and not pneumatic. Seats not too bad, they recline. Bus is rammed, not a spare seat. One other couple not Indian, French Canadian, young medical students, seem a nice couple. Tied our rucksack together for security, prior to putting in luggage compartment which is not secure.

Driver a Hindu, believe he must have a small statue of his deity in the cab with him. After experiencing his driving for 10 minutes now believe it to be Kali in the female form, (Google it)

Hindus believe that everything is preordained. There is no free will. The universe is like a well oiled machine, and while you may not know what will happen next, you are powerless to stop it, the next cog will turn!!

So if our bus plunges several hundred feet into the ravine, killing all aboard except for the bus driver, it will be because it is preordained and not because he failed to brake in time. He will be blameless and guilt free, (obviously it was our karma that was fucked) and quite happily drive another bus full of passengers the next day.

I watch the driver accelerate for a diminishing gap with oncoming HGV's, being forced to break hard at the last possible moment; enter tightening corners too fast, causing rear wheel slides, and overtaking on blind bends (not every vehicle has lights).

After a while I actually begin to feel travel sickness, something not experienced since before puberty. I close my eyes and picture myself on a very badly constructed rollercoaster. (Even the potholes have potholes)
However, I soon begin to enjoy the journey and imagine that the driver is not driving for the comfort and convenience of his passengers, but to beat his previous best time!!

Decide to get a deity for car when I get back. Hey don't knock it, seems to work for him!!!

Arrive alive, no sleep, wake Yvonne. Made record time of just over 8 hours, congratulate driver.
Was going to take a photo of the bus, but by the time I got the camera out it was gone in a cloud of dust.

So leaving you with picture of McLeod.

Next post 'McLeod in the the Clouds'.

Toy Train To Shimla

Shimla is at around 2100 metres in the foothills of the Himalayas, a steep climb from Kalka, where we board the toy train. Narrow gauge track; 102 tunnels. Says on ticket a/c carriage, soon realise this means open the windows!!
Takes just over 5 hours to reach Shimla. Much cooler at 24 °C, and cold enough at night to need a duvet. Walk to guest house, Spar Lodge from the station. About a km, and a steep climb. Resolve to buy walking stick or jet pack.
Nice lodge, feels very alpine, all wood with massive views of deep valleys and steep hills.
You can be fined for:-
Smoking in public.
Spitting.
Having a plastic bag.
Driving in restricted areas.
The penalty for parking in restricted areas is having all your tyres let down!

Shimla is what you may imagine what it was like in the time of colonialism, and there is lots of evidence. Has the second oldest church in India, inside are plaques to old soldiers who served and died in Shimla.

No sign of Delhi Belly despite eating from the local 'chat' shops (small eating houses selling equivalent of fast food).

Taking tea in what was the old band stand. Not a tea bag in sight!! I can't remember when I used real tea leaf and a strainer. Tastes really good!

Buy a walking stick, more to keep the monkeys at bay. They like to steal spectacles and hats, although they do look a little strange wearing them. They also like mobile phones, but have no idea about credit limits.

Shimla is very clean. Well worth a visit. If you get the chance, go!

Leave you with a picture of the church, and a new friend.

Next 'Shake, Rattle and Roll'.

The Phoenix of Chandigarh

Candigarh. Bulldozed by the Indian government in 1952. Intention was to build a 'modern' Indian city. (Think Milton Keynes). Grid layout, each part of the grid a different district with different characteristics. Lots of expensive properties for government officials. Corresponding level of security. Anyway a guy called Nek Chand wanted to preserve some of the old Chandigarh so he started a small garden in the 1960's using what he could salvage from the rubble of old Chandigarh. When it was discovered in 1973 it covered 12 acres. Of course as it was not sanctioned by the government he was told it would be bulldozed. However, some enlightened official saw the potential and Chand was given official endorsement. Now a very popular destination for the Indian, but not well known for the European visitor.

Thousands and thousands of models made from rubble, old porcelain bits, tin cans, bangles, recycled cement, etc. Quite a sight!

Had our first try of street food, and we can say that it tasted very good. Decided early on that we would only eat vegetarian food while in India.  Had Somoza with veg curry sauce. Cost 30p for both of us. All the locals were eating it, so guessed it was fine.

We wanted some quiet time so we went to the 'Rose Garden'. Big public space with walk ways and a huge variety of rose bushes. Sitting in the shade, quietly reading, until look up and surrounded by school kids on a day trip from Shimla. All wanting to talk and ask endless questions. So much for our quiet time. Kids were very polite and well behaved. Lots of photos taken by their teachers of us with the pupils.

Leave you with a couple of photos of the rock garden.

Next 'Toy Train To Shimla'.

The Wrong Trousers (I mean train)

Up early to catch 07.40 to Chandigarh. Platform 2, carriage 6, seats 38 & 39. No worries. Train pulls in 'Shatavdi Express', marvolous, just what's on the ticket! (learn later that lots of trains are called this)
On we get. At 07.10 train pulls off. Find conductor ask why the train is leaving early, show tickets. He then shouts to someone up front. Explains to us the next train on platform 2 is the Shatabvdi express to Chandigarh. After a while train stops. Off we jump onto tracks some half mile from the station. Move, with some caution, but quickly, back to New Delhi station. Pursued by uniform with big stick, who has just come to our notice. Let him catch up but he has to run faster than us. Says 'what is your ticket pnr number?' Show him ticket. No pnr number that we can find. Explain that we have a train to catch. Looks at us as if we are mad and waves us on.
Scramble onto platform 2. Train in. Time 07.35. Find seats. No worries. Train is full. Good service. Tea is served. Later, breakfast is served consisting of spicy veg sausage's, bread and jam. All included in the price of a second class ticket.
Arrive Chandigarh some three and a half hours later.
Off to find somewhere to stay.
Get in 'government approved' guest house after a couple of tries. £9 a night for us both. However does come with some down sides:-
No water working, have to hassle a bit. Eventually get it fixed. Reason why no water, everything leaks, lol.
Cables exposed all over the place. Decide not to put on the hot water heater. Besides much too hot to have hot shower.
Sheets okay, but pillows bio health hazard. Sleep in our silk liners.
Superior room sir, has air con. Well yes it was a bit of a con. Worked after a fashion, sounded like a Boeing 747. Had a very old fashion gate switch to turn it on, blue sparked, you bet.
Had a wardrobe, but was full of loose sand. Not just a bit, rather a small hill.
Leave you with a picture of the 'wrong train'.
Next post, 'The Phoenix of Chandigarh'.

Delhi Delights

Did the tourist bit. Arranged all day trip with air conditioned taxi. All in for a tenner. (No commission my friend, (sub text- apart from my aunties carpet/scarf/dress/jewellery shop, and my uncle's very fine restaurant)).
Buy and bye, before I tell, we had a good day, saw:-
Humayun`s Tomb.
Qutb Minar.
Gandhi's museum.
India Gate. (The real one, not the cardboard copy. In joke for Helen, Gail and Mike).
The Presidential Palace.
Lodi Garden.
Lotus Temple.
Aunties carpet/scarf/dress/jewellery shop (special price for you). Yvonne did buy a scarf, but it was nice, and you can't have too many scarf's.
Uncle's restaurant. (In the lift up to it, but you can bloody well walk back down you cheapskates. LOL.

One picture of Yvonne by the India Gate.

Next episode 'The Wrong Trousers' (I mean train).