McLeod in the clouds

Feels we are in Tibet rather than India. Lots of monks about. Many of them have chunky wrist watches. They all seem to have mobile phones, and quite a few have either laptops or pads of some description. Mind you this is the centre for 'free Tibet', so it figures that there would be a need for communication.
We like it here, so decided to stay for 5 days. Not the same intense 'in your face'. Relaxed and laid back.
From our hotel/guest house we have a spectacular view of the foot hills facing south towards the plains of India, while behind us we can see the mountains and peaks of the Himalayas.

The room is clean, has an attached shower and WC  (European). Free WiFi, and a cafe. However, there are lots of places to eat. Room costs £5 a night.
Made friends with a cat, fed it some cheese.
When we went to bed we left the window open. The windows have metal bars and wrought iron work, to keep the monkeys out. Fast asleep when Yvonne calls out 'Mike something is touching my feet!!'  Switch light on, cat curled up at bottom of bed. Checked it for fleas, none, so let it stay.
Next night the same, and the next.

We both took a course on making stuff out of paper mache over a few days. We found the design work good fun. Were taught a number of techniques on the painting side, using fine brushes and water colours. The finished article is lacquered a couple of times to make it water proof.

Lots of nice stuff to buy. Pure yak wool shawls, blankets, jumpers, as well as cashmere sweaters. Could fit yourself out to look like a 60's hippy for a few pounds!!
Yvonne brought herself a scarf, can't have too many scarf's!

Did the tourist bit, visited the temples and spun the prayer wheels.

Tomorrow (12th Sept) make our way to Amritsar.
Leave you with a couple of photos of McLeod Ganj.

Shake,Rattle and Roll.

Our next stop is McLeod Ganj (Dharmasala), home of the Dalai Lama, in exile. At 1750 metres, in the foothills of the Himalayas. But how to get there? By bus of course! Let's go  overnight as it takes 8 and 1/2 hours, means we won't have to pay for accommodation, yippee.

Get to bus station, find bay where bus will depart from, and wait. Bus leaves at 21.30. Is about what we expected, a little tired and worn out, the bus I mean. Tyres are completely bald, if I didn't know better I would have said that they were solid rubber and not pneumatic. Seats not too bad, they recline. Bus is rammed, not a spare seat. One other couple not Indian, French Canadian, young medical students, seem a nice couple. Tied our rucksack together for security, prior to putting in luggage compartment which is not secure.

Driver a Hindu, believe he must have a small statue of his deity in the cab with him. After experiencing his driving for 10 minutes now believe it to be Kali in the female form, (Google it)

Hindus believe that everything is preordained. There is no free will. The universe is like a well oiled machine, and while you may not know what will happen next, you are powerless to stop it, the next cog will turn!!

So if our bus plunges several hundred feet into the ravine, killing all aboard except for the bus driver, it will be because it is preordained and not because he failed to brake in time. He will be blameless and guilt free, (obviously it was our karma that was fucked) and quite happily drive another bus full of passengers the next day.

I watch the driver accelerate for a diminishing gap with oncoming HGV's, being forced to break hard at the last possible moment; enter tightening corners too fast, causing rear wheel slides, and overtaking on blind bends (not every vehicle has lights).

After a while I actually begin to feel travel sickness, something not experienced since before puberty. I close my eyes and picture myself on a very badly constructed rollercoaster. (Even the potholes have potholes)
However, I soon begin to enjoy the journey and imagine that the driver is not driving for the comfort and convenience of his passengers, but to beat his previous best time!!

Decide to get a deity for car when I get back. Hey don't knock it, seems to work for him!!!

Arrive alive, no sleep, wake Yvonne. Made record time of just over 8 hours, congratulate driver.
Was going to take a photo of the bus, but by the time I got the camera out it was gone in a cloud of dust.

So leaving you with picture of McLeod.

Next post 'McLeod in the the Clouds'.

Toy Train To Shimla

Shimla is at around 2100 metres in the foothills of the Himalayas, a steep climb from Kalka, where we board the toy train. Narrow gauge track; 102 tunnels. Says on ticket a/c carriage, soon realise this means open the windows!!
Takes just over 5 hours to reach Shimla. Much cooler at 24 °C, and cold enough at night to need a duvet. Walk to guest house, Spar Lodge from the station. About a km, and a steep climb. Resolve to buy walking stick or jet pack.
Nice lodge, feels very alpine, all wood with massive views of deep valleys and steep hills.
You can be fined for:-
Smoking in public.
Spitting.
Having a plastic bag.
Driving in restricted areas.
The penalty for parking in restricted areas is having all your tyres let down!

Shimla is what you may imagine what it was like in the time of colonialism, and there is lots of evidence. Has the second oldest church in India, inside are plaques to old soldiers who served and died in Shimla.

No sign of Delhi Belly despite eating from the local 'chat' shops (small eating houses selling equivalent of fast food).

Taking tea in what was the old band stand. Not a tea bag in sight!! I can't remember when I used real tea leaf and a strainer. Tastes really good!

Buy a walking stick, more to keep the monkeys at bay. They like to steal spectacles and hats, although they do look a little strange wearing them. They also like mobile phones, but have no idea about credit limits.

Shimla is very clean. Well worth a visit. If you get the chance, go!

Leave you with a picture of the church, and a new friend.

Next 'Shake, Rattle and Roll'.

The Phoenix of Chandigarh

Candigarh. Bulldozed by the Indian government in 1952. Intention was to build a 'modern' Indian city. (Think Milton Keynes). Grid layout, each part of the grid a different district with different characteristics. Lots of expensive properties for government officials. Corresponding level of security. Anyway a guy called Nek Chand wanted to preserve some of the old Chandigarh so he started a small garden in the 1960's using what he could salvage from the rubble of old Chandigarh. When it was discovered in 1973 it covered 12 acres. Of course as it was not sanctioned by the government he was told it would be bulldozed. However, some enlightened official saw the potential and Chand was given official endorsement. Now a very popular destination for the Indian, but not well known for the European visitor.

Thousands and thousands of models made from rubble, old porcelain bits, tin cans, bangles, recycled cement, etc. Quite a sight!

Had our first try of street food, and we can say that it tasted very good. Decided early on that we would only eat vegetarian food while in India.  Had Somoza with veg curry sauce. Cost 30p for both of us. All the locals were eating it, so guessed it was fine.

We wanted some quiet time so we went to the 'Rose Garden'. Big public space with walk ways and a huge variety of rose bushes. Sitting in the shade, quietly reading, until look up and surrounded by school kids on a day trip from Shimla. All wanting to talk and ask endless questions. So much for our quiet time. Kids were very polite and well behaved. Lots of photos taken by their teachers of us with the pupils.

Leave you with a couple of photos of the rock garden.

Next 'Toy Train To Shimla'.

The Wrong Trousers (I mean train)

Up early to catch 07.40 to Chandigarh. Platform 2, carriage 6, seats 38 & 39. No worries. Train pulls in 'Shatavdi Express', marvolous, just what's on the ticket! (learn later that lots of trains are called this)
On we get. At 07.10 train pulls off. Find conductor ask why the train is leaving early, show tickets. He then shouts to someone up front. Explains to us the next train on platform 2 is the Shatabvdi express to Chandigarh. After a while train stops. Off we jump onto tracks some half mile from the station. Move, with some caution, but quickly, back to New Delhi station. Pursued by uniform with big stick, who has just come to our notice. Let him catch up but he has to run faster than us. Says 'what is your ticket pnr number?' Show him ticket. No pnr number that we can find. Explain that we have a train to catch. Looks at us as if we are mad and waves us on.
Scramble onto platform 2. Train in. Time 07.35. Find seats. No worries. Train is full. Good service. Tea is served. Later, breakfast is served consisting of spicy veg sausage's, bread and jam. All included in the price of a second class ticket.
Arrive Chandigarh some three and a half hours later.
Off to find somewhere to stay.
Get in 'government approved' guest house after a couple of tries. £9 a night for us both. However does come with some down sides:-
No water working, have to hassle a bit. Eventually get it fixed. Reason why no water, everything leaks, lol.
Cables exposed all over the place. Decide not to put on the hot water heater. Besides much too hot to have hot shower.
Sheets okay, but pillows bio health hazard. Sleep in our silk liners.
Superior room sir, has air con. Well yes it was a bit of a con. Worked after a fashion, sounded like a Boeing 747. Had a very old fashion gate switch to turn it on, blue sparked, you bet.
Had a wardrobe, but was full of loose sand. Not just a bit, rather a small hill.
Leave you with a picture of the 'wrong train'.
Next post, 'The Phoenix of Chandigarh'.

Delhi Delights

Did the tourist bit. Arranged all day trip with air conditioned taxi. All in for a tenner. (No commission my friend, (sub text- apart from my aunties carpet/scarf/dress/jewellery shop, and my uncle's very fine restaurant)).
Buy and bye, before I tell, we had a good day, saw:-
Humayun`s Tomb.
Qutb Minar.
Gandhi's museum.
India Gate. (The real one, not the cardboard copy. In joke for Helen, Gail and Mike).
The Presidential Palace.
Lodi Garden.
Lotus Temple.
Aunties carpet/scarf/dress/jewellery shop (special price for you). Yvonne did buy a scarf, but it was nice, and you can't have too many scarf's.
Uncle's restaurant. (In the lift up to it, but you can bloody well walk back down you cheapskates. LOL.

One picture of Yvonne by the India Gate.

Next episode 'The Wrong Trousers' (I mean train).

Flat Earth & Time Travel.

Arrived at the Smyle Inn, Bali Chandi Wali, Main Bazaar, Paharganj, at 05.30. Down an ally, past the open, men's public urinals.
Nice room, fan works! Couple of hours sleep, onto the roof for breakfast of cornflakes, fruit juice, jam and toast, coffee, and a banana, all in for £5 a night.
One end of the Bazaar is opposite New Delhi Railway station, nice and handy. The Bazaar is noisy, colourful, smell of spice and cooking, and full of shops and stalls selling almost anything you can imagine, except a nice cold beer. Mike is wondering how he is going to maintain his waist line!
Everybody friendly, no commission, very best price, honest!!
LOL.
Next episode, 'Delhi Delights'.