Samarkand

Caught a train from Tashkent to the old city of Samarkand. On the old silk road linking China to the Mediterranean. Famous for its mosques and mausoleums.

One thing about the people from Uzbekistan, they are unfailingly polite and courteous. The young give up their seats for the elderly on public transport, they want to engage in conversation to improve their English, they have a 6 day school week, and look healthy and physically fit. The adults are as polite, although the men are often rotund.

So we arrive at Samarkand Station after three and a half hours, about 200 miles. Are asked very politely if we want a taxi by the drivers. Mike asked where the 73 bus leaves from, gets a civil reply and directions (try that of a taxi driver in India). Catch the bus which costs a flat rate of 1400 som or 12 pence. We know roughly where the guest house is. It takes us 30 minutes on the bus and a 5 minute walk, bump into a seemingly random person who politely asks if we need directions. He turns out to be the proprietor of the guest house we are seeking. 
Place is behind big double doors, an inset door reveals an open courtyard with rooms on three sides. We sit on a raised platform, cushions, low table, chi all round with fresh honey, watermelon, biscuits, in the cool. Listening to a couple of canaries in a cage, Job done!

The mattresses in this part of the world seem to be made of concrete, to say they are firm is an under statement. There is absolutely no give. This may be good for ones back, but like most therapies takes a while.
So after a mixed night's sleep we have breakfast of fruit, yoghurt, cheese, very small boiled eggs (could be canary), tea and bread. Off we trot to explore.

Samarkand, possibly founded 6 or 7th century BC, is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in Central Asia. Famous for embroidery, gold embroidery, silk weaving, engraving on copper, ceramics, carving and painting on wood. It is a crossroads of cultures.
This time of the year is cool at around 22-28 °C, for us just about right. For the locals it is quite cool. It can be above 40, and as low as - 35, so a great time to visit.

There are a number of  Madrasas established for astronomical observations and learning, for philosophy and religion. The main religion is Islam, then the Russian orthodox Church, followed by Christians and the Armenian Church. However, many are atheist. Since independence people are able to express their views openly.

The mausoleum known as Gur-i Amir is popular as a setting for one's wedding. It is like a production line. Brides in their wedding gowns, grooms in tuxedo's and suits. One street is dedicated to all the needs of couples, from flowers to wedding attire, hairdressers and barbers, nails and marriage guidance counselling (just kidding about the last). 
Happy brides and shell shocked grooms, or happy grooms and desperate brides.

Mike went looking for the equivalent of the off licence. You can buy alcohol, vodka of course, and an Uzbekistan beer which has about the same alcohol content as a bottle of wine, 10-12% proof. 
Mike had a couple of pints without realising this at a local Plov place (explain in a bit) in Tashkent, and couldn't understand why his legs didn't work for a while. He even put his bad head down to the heat. Still, lesson learned, stick to vodka.

Plov is a Uzbekistan dish of pilau rice with beef strips and garlic. Lots of meat is eaten here, and the word vegetarian is as alien as it is in France. If you happen to be a vegan your luck is out, you may as well be a Vogan from Vogsphere. Even the vegetarian dish of noodles has meat in it. 
One local dish is made from the shin and hoof of a cow. Still, early days!

I will leave you with some photos. Plov; Gui-i Amir. 

Uzbekistan

Got to Istanbul where we change planes. Got offered 400 euros each to catch a later flight to Uzbekistan as our flight was overbooked. Well who wouldn't, oh and a free dinner.
Mind you this is Turkey, smoke and mirrors. Just as the first flight was about to leave, and Mike was in the duty free wondering what to spend his windfall on, we were told that all arrangements were off and we had to run. Apparently it was no longer overbooked. Yippee. Even more joy when Mike found himself sitting next to a young man (anyone under the age of 40) who's breath smelt of fermented Yaks milk.
After 4 hours we arrive in Tashkent. The young man was met by a person who looked like they herded yaks for a living, funny old world.
We were met by the owner of the hostel we were to stay at. Noticed that all the cars were Chevrelot, white or black. Apparently any other imported new car is subject to 100% import charge.
We are knackered and just want to get to bed, but our host decides we definitely need a whistle stop tour at 1.30 am. We planned to stay for 3 nights, turns out that a whistle stop tour, and a day in the underground about covers Tashkent.

It is the capital city. Under soviet planning, wide 6 Lane straight avenues, 3 up and 3 down; great for soviet tanks, some brutal soviet architecture, and big impressive soviet style bronze statues. All changed with independence in September 1991. Statue of Lenin and other heroes removed, replaced with Uzbek heroes. Lenin Square becomes Independence Square (Mustaqillik Maydoni).
Fortunatly there is still quite a lot of the old city left. You can access most of it from the underground metro system, built in 1977.
Been extended twice since, and is still being developed. Was to double as a place of refuge in case of a nuclear war. You can still see evidence of meter thick blast doors in the old part of the system.

Leave you with some photos. Independence Square;Soviet style road; Metro.